Friends, Romans, Countrymen-
You are about to read an account of one day in the lives of 65 singers touring Rome- through the eyes and ears of one junior music major from Newton, Mass named Avi David... Welcome to Rome, via my head.
Avi: (roughly 8:46am) "What are you most excited for today, Paul?"
Paul Machlin: (roughly 8:47am) "After yesterday...?"
Could anything top yesterday's experience, singing at Mass in THE MOST IMPORTANT CHURCH IN THE WORLD??
We woke this morning at the chipper hour of 7am in order to pack in a full day of exploring, singing, and living. As we waited outdoors in the brisk Rome air for 3 members of Chorale who slept through their alarms to get dressed, I chatted with some of the singers themselves.
My question: "What are you most excited for today?"
Answer: by anonymous female: "ET phone home!"
(Footnote: Later conversation clarified that this female was exploring the metaphorical relationship between the scene in ET in which ET's magical finger heals that poor boy's bleeding finger and that semi well-known painting by a man named Michelangelo entitled "The Creation of Adam." Maybe Paul will be interested in teaching a course in this subject matter next fall?)
Around 9am we arrived at a site called "Musei Vaticani" (For those of you who aren't fluent in Italian like we singers all are, a proper translation of this title may be something like "Vatican Museum"). As we waited for our tickets to enter the museum, several chorale members engaged in a philosophical enquiry into the true nature of the mullet, and whether its bold re-emergence into European pop culture is benefiting society as a whole. And the verdict:
"the mullet is NOT cool"
"disgusting"
"hip"
"stylish"
"hairstyle? I though a mullet was a fish" (Can you guess who said this? Yes, it was Paul)
"this just proves that Spain should not..." (the writer of this blog removed the end of this quote because it could potentially be seen as offensive... Billy)
What stimulating conversation in the Vatican.
Anyways, I think it would be safe to say that most of our lives changed drastically for the better upon the entrance into our lives of a superhero named Giancarlo. Giancarlo was the tour guide for half of us through the Vatican museum. He was witty, funny, insightful, knowledgeable... basically an ideal tour guide, and human being. I knew he was going to be a winner from the beginning when he said: "Let the good times roll" more than 17 times in a row. For the whole tour we wore headphones that were wirelessly hooked up to his microphone- a very funny sensation. For 3 hours Giancarlo produced all thoughts that occurred inside my brain. It felt I was looking at artwork and thinking about it to myself, but in an Italian accent, with insight that I didn't know I had.
The artwork in the Vatican was far beyond spectacular and the stories behind the art added a new dimension to our appreciation. This anecdote seems appropriate right about now: In the 18th century, one conservative Pope added fig leaves to several sculptures of naked humans, covering their genitalia. For many other sculptures, he simply chiseled off the genitalia. After much research and many controversial claims, Giancarlo assured us that there is a box somewhere in the Vatican filled with genitalia of all of the sculptures. He told us that there is a possibility that the genitals may be re-attached someday, but this might induce hostility between the statues for the most sizable you know what.
Among the other tidbits of knowledge Giancarlo imparted upon us, he explained why we go to museums: Just as we go to a restaurant to feed our body, we go to a museum to feed our spirit. We need to take care of our spirit just as much as we do our physical body, and art provides this type of nourishment. Brilliance.
After a couple hours we exited the museum and entered a semi well-known room that some connoisseurs may have recognized as the "Sistine Chapel." Mind-blowing. The room is covered in Michelangelo's artwork and embodies a spirit of pure awe and genius. There's nothing else to say about it. If you haven't been there, go.
We ended the Vatican tour with a quick visit to St. Peter's Basilica, where we had sang the previous day. Again, it was stunning, humbling, overwhelming.
Our eventful day continued with a short performance at Palazzo Margherita, the US Embassy in Rome, for the US Ambassador to Italy and his posse. It was great fun. We sang and then they tried to convince us to become diplomats, and may have been successful in a few cases.
After some free time to feed our spirits (and bodies) with the art form that is Italian pizza, we headed to Chiesa Santa Maria della Scala for our first complete performance. By the 9pm concert, many of us were thoroughly fulfilled with the exciting and meaningful events of the day, and growing tired. But when we started to sing, the large and astonishing cathedral provided the most beautiful resonance, and the Chorale just SHINED. We fed off the growing audience and Paul's enthusiastic, focused and blissful face to produce an angelic sound that brought tears to many eyes. On the bus ride home after the performance, Paul summed up the night:
"There was one point during the first set when I was transported. I had a transporting experience. I don't know where I was, but I was somewhere else."
I think I can speak for the Chorale when I say with the deepest respect and humility: Thank you Paul. Thank you for getting us here. Thank you for your tenacious dedication, musical brilliance, and faith in us to sing in such a spiritually infused and historically important environment. Singing in the Vatican has been life altering.
We are currently Florence bound. Be well folks! We love and miss you all.